Saturday, January 5, 2013

Ouray Part two - Ice

Eye the sweet spot, line up the swing, tap once, twice, third time a little harder... Ice climbing appears "easy" and "monotonous" to the die hard rock climber, but what can't be conveyed by watching someone else climb is the refined sense of balance, precision, and subtly required to really climb ice well. After years of practice the the motions become second nature and the ice becomes predictable. Little techniques like cleaning your lower tool from a hanging position, stepping down to rest, and pivoting your heels out can add up and turn what was once a desperate pumpfest into a casual, relaxing pitch.

I find it very rewarding and engaging to coach others on ice, but its also nice to get out and practice my own swing from time to time. In Ouray I had the privilege of getting on some back country classics with solid partners. Jeremiah and I climbed in the ice park as well as Whorehouse hoses in Silverton and Horsetail Falls just above Ouray, the latter taking us 1:45 car to car. Fellow Alpine Mentors padawan Steven and I did some quality climbing on Camp Bird Road, including the route Skylight in thin early season conditions, most likely the first time that route has seen action this year. All the way from North Carolina, Fox Mountain Guides Karsten and Lindsay went to Silverton to climb the classic Whorehouse Hoses. I was psyched to go back at redo this climb that has been in great condition lately.

After a week of climbing I felt solid and confident on ice once again... soon I'll be heading back to reunite with the other padawans, master Jedi Steve, and hopefully the good Dr Doom himself for the annual party the is the Ouray Ice Fest. Although disappointed that I didn't make the cut for the mixed competition this year, Im psyched for my friends who did and will be there to cheer them on!


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